Unfortunately , the author (Megabondagedaemon or A.D.I.D.A.S – Anime Damsels In Distress Alternate Scenes) has removed all his work from the site for personal reasons.
But fortunately there is a picture with explanation…
Nice fairy-tale, but I wonder if something from this drawing can be used in the real self-bondage sessions.
Your ideas are very welcome. So are any related drawings 😉
Update Jun 22, 2008:
Just to keep a copy of www.boundforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5742 (the thread does not exist anymore)
jgmrequel came with this design:
[This is]an exploded view of the basic mechanism. I went with a double latch, so that the top latch will have a solid face engaging the rod.The sides are slotted to accept straps, so it can attach to a collar, or by its self, strapped around the torso.
The front is bare and solid with the exception of the locking tabs. I may redesign it so that the tabs are along the bottom of the latch.
BDSmanUK took over:
I have only access to tools etc. that can be bought from the local DIY store, which has greatly influenced my design. Lamination is the solution I have adopted, i.e. a number of plates fastened together.
The first picture illustrates what the finished mechanism would look like. It consists of 4 assembled parts, the left and right collar attachments, the latch locking pin, and the release screw. When in place, i.e. locked, it will be symmetrical.
I have chosen to use an rectangular section shaped latch locking pin to overcome the problem of a round pin turning and failing to engage. The top of the locking pin could be shaped so that it automatically aligns itself.
The next 4 pictures illustrate the components of the locking mechanism in more detail.
Most of the components are drawn to scale. When locked, the collar attachments will measure 2.5″ x 1.75″ x 0.5″, which is about the maximum size that can be accommodated at the back of the neck. The plates are all 0.125″ thick. The latch pin will be made from 0.5″ by 0.25″ section, and the latch plunger from 0.25″ x 0.25″ square bar. The spring will be 0.25″ diameter and approx. 0.75″ in length. The release screw will have a M3 (3mm) thread. An M3 eyelet would be ideal.
At present, I’m thinking that most components will be made from aluminium, otherwise a very stiff leotard collar would be required if heavier steel was used. Alternatively, high density plastic could be used. The design would probably need to be modified if the components are to be glued together. It could even be smaller.
The first layer, i.e. the left and right collar plates have slots to enable the lock to be attached to the collar by 1.5″ webbing. The 6 holes enable the plates to be fastened together.
The second and third layer plates are shaped to have tongues which fit into recesses (top half). The right hand plates have a second recess to house the latch plunger and spring (bottom half), as illustrated [above].
The left and right hand collar attachments will be held together by fiction of the tongues in the recesses. When the latch pin is inserted, it will lock the collar attachments together. The pin itself will be locked in place by spring loaded latch plunger.
The plates could be fastened together by machine screws, pop rivets or even good old fashioned rivets, the type you bash with a hammer.
When assembled, the right hand collar attachment will have a 3mm hole drill into the right hand edge. This will allow the release screw to be screwed into the end of the latch plunger. Two possible release mechanisms could be adopted.
1) A release cord attached to a ‘full length’ screw could simple be pulled.
2) Alternatively, the screw could be removed completely, preventing the sub freeing herself. She must wait patiently for her master to insert a shorter release screw, such that when it is screwed all the way home, it retracts the latch plunger, releasing the latch pin.
As already mentioned, the latch plunger will be made from square bar. To make the retaining lug, a hammer could be used to form a mushroom head at the end of the bar. This could then be shaped to form the retaining lug. Well, that’s the plan!
As can be seen, the latch pin is in fact, the top part the the T-piece. The arm binder sleeve, the straps etc. will be fixed to the horizontal bar.
Another eyelet (not illustrated) will be attached to the T-piece, just below the lock area. A cord from the ceiling will attached to this second eyelet. When a sub descends from an upright to a fully kneeling position, she will descend at least 8″, closing the leotard’s zip, and cinching the arm binder sleeve, straps etc.
The ceiling ‘locking’ cord will be tied to the eyelet by a special quick release knot which I’m sure I’ve seen on the Internet somewhere. Once the leotard is locked, the sub will then pull on the tail of the cord, which will undo the knot, detaching it from the eyelet (similar to undoing your shoelaces).
See also: Self-bondage unitard forum thread for the lock design and a 3D printout.