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Methods, Devices and Modifications for SB
#1
I would like to collect methods, devices and modifications of "normal" items that help using standard bondage gear such as leather cuffs, straight jackets, monogloves or sleeping bags. Applications don't matter, as long as there are possible applications in self-bondage. It might be helpful to add photos or drawings. I will start right now, add a few illustrations later. I would love to keep each section in a separate post, but from my experience, two posts from the same author, posted after each other, are combined into a single one most of the time.

Zippers
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If a zipper cannot be opened or closed directly (manually), a string helps a lot. The string is tied to the handle of the zipper slider and the other end of the string goes to a hook on the wall, a door handle or anything else that can serve as a fixed point near you.

A zipper cannot be under too much stress when closing it. With bare hands, you can straighten the zipper line near the slider. If you can reach the upper part (swimsuit with back zipper for example), you can straighten it a bit by pulling there.

If a zipper ends at the top of a flexible collar or similar, pulling it down can be impossible, because the collar (or whatever) bends over. Supporting the zipper can help. For example, if you want to open the back zipper of a catsuit, you could lean your neck (where the zipper starts to open) against the back of a chair, then pull the string. Do not rely on this method without testing, it might even be impossible to reach the string, string might have to be longer or this method simply doesn't help.

Some sliders have a locking mechanism, you need to lift the handle a bit in order to slide it down (open). If you have such a zipper, consider this in your release planning.

Zipper sliders tend to get caught in anything that comes close to the zipper line.

Slider handles can break off.

Zippers might work better and more smoothly, if "lubricated" with an old-style pencil (containing graphite).

Buckles
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A standard strap buckle as used in bondage gear, usually consists of a square or rectangular shaped ring with an axis in the center and a pin connected to this axis. If you wrap an elastic ring or a tube around this, you get a self-fastening buckle. Pull the strap against the free end of the pin, and when you release, it will be caught. Pull the strap away from the pin and when released carefully (keep some tension), it might not be caught, this is the release. You only need to trap the end of the strap somewhere or attach a string that can be hooked to a fixed point (door handle etc.).

Some belts have two D-rings instead of a buckle. The free end of the belt is fed through both rings, then you pull tight. In order to secure the belt, you pull the free end through one of the rings again. If you fold the rings back, onto the part of the belt, where they are attached, the end of the belt is released. A variation of this principle is used in the famous "ring device".

Friction and Force
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If you make a loop with a rope, using a slip knot, it will be easy to pull that loop open. If you for an eight from this loop and fold this eight together to form one loop with two strands, you need twice as much force to pull it open. Fold it again... etc. On the other hand, tightening a double, triple or quadruple loop by pulling the open end needs less force than tightening a single loop. This applies also for completely friction-free rope. However, with normal rope and its friction, it will be almost impossible to open a loop, if you have enough strands.

Friction and Sweat
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From my experience, rubber has a high friction on skin. However, it has low friction on sweaty skin.
PVC has a wide range of friction, depending on the type. It seems, that all pvc has a tendency to "glue" itself to the skin with sweat.

Strap Fastening

A simple method of fastening a strap to a D-ring or similar fixture is using stud fasteners. I have often seen this on leather handbags. The strap goes through the D-ring, then folded back onto itself, and there fixed with one or two stud fasteners. Add a ring at the very end of the strap to pull that off with a string.

Strings
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Strings can be used to pull things that you cannot reach directly. And they can be "operated" without touching them, if hooked to a fixed point in space, such as a door handle or a hook on the wall.

When constructing release or capturing methods with strings, the whole method is as good as its individual components. For example, used on a zipper, the string might be strong enough, but if the zipper gets caught, the handle might break. A hook on the wall, or even a door handle might come lose. Etc. A knot could open, a key ring might slowly "wander" through a knot until it comes off. However, a lose connection could be useful as well, if it is controllable. For example, tie a clothes-peg to a string in order to manipulate something with low force, then pull harder to remove the peg.

Drawstrings in fashion often come with a clamp at the end. When you push a "button", this clamp slides easily, otherwise, it is strong enough to keep a narrow waistline in a coat or prevent a hood from sliding off your head. Used with the multiple loop method (see "Friction and Force"), these clamps can be useful on lacing.
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#2
How about a length of wood? Some times, I use what is called a 2-by-4 (2x4, Stud). An eight footer, with rings screwed into each end, and a few down the middle will hold you into bondage untill your release device sets you free.

You can also hide this toy under the bed, couch, or the backyard.

With this simple peice of wood, you can be streached out, folded, doggy styled, or any posision you want. Add spreader bars, collars, straps and chastity devices.

Sounds like a lot, but that is just the start. And the cost would be less than $20.00 for the basic parts.
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