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Straight-Harness design for selfbondage
#1
Hello, I've recently been "interested", let's say,  in straightjacket bondage, and fantasising of a way to lock myself in one for selfbondage.
I wasn't however a fan of using anchor points to tighten the straps as I seen no way to tighten it securely while still being able to reliably get out.

And so this idea came to mind, which I built over a few days of trial and error and I want to share:

LEFT = original design - RIGHT= updated design.

 Image (11).jpg       bvdsBV.jpg   

Before we begin, orange indicates a strap in front of the body, while blue is a strap at the back, for clarity. letter "B" stands for a tightening buckle like the ones in backpack straps, and "RB" starnds for Release buckle, the kind  you squeeze to open.

I call it "Straight-Harness" because it mimics the functionality of a straightjacket and relies on padlocks for securing and releasing yourself.

The body harness is made out of fabric straps (which I sourced from luggage straps for vehicles) with a waist loop, two crossed shoulder straps and two thigh loops.  There are also auxilliary straps with rings for hog-tie purposes or securing yourself to a stationary object, use your imagination.

On the side is the arm piece (one per arm, the left one is shown with the silhouette of an arm for illustration): it has a palm loop, a wrist loop and a elbow loop . A strap with rings is placed against the underside of the arm, and keeps the three loops together.
The wrist loop has an adjustable buckle for tightening.  The palm loop is not adjustablle and your hand should fit snugly through it, the loop should rest not over the fingers but over the knuckles on the palm. The point is, you should not be able to slide the four fingers out.
The main strap then continues on, loops around one of the L,R waist rings (they should be rather large D rings) on the body harness and then closes up on theupper side of the elbow loop. A release buckle allows you to unfasten the arm piece and only attach it when appropriate.

At the palm there is another ring that should be padlocked to the waist ring on the opposite side. The palm ring is right in the middle of the hand, as you should be able to manipulate a small padlock with your fingers to get in and out of bondage.

The elbow strap runs through one side loop and keeps the elbow against your body. The strap should be pre-tightened as much as possible while still being able to have the palm loop reach the other waist ring. When both arm pieces are in place, you padlock the palm rings to the waist rings, thus locking the hands at your sides.
The palm loop prevents you from lifting your hhand up and reaching the elbow strap buckle, making in nigh-on impossible to  loosen the straps. I also put a strap to secure the palm loop to the wrist loop on the dorsal side of the hand, making it even harder to slide out of it.


I crafted an amateurish version of this idea from luggage straps, rings and buckles bought at the hardware store. I "sewed" the straps together wyth heavy-duty staples and duct tape to protect them and keep them in place. It sounds flimsy but it isn't, trust me.


UPDATE - Based on Ra's and Tinker D's suggestion I shortened the shoulder straps a little and raised the ring at the back where they depart from. Now it's much easier to fasten them at the sides and tighten them without any hazard to the neck area.



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Features and considerations:
  • Surprisingly easy to get into, and by far the most comfortable arm position I've ever tied myself in.
  • The system uses two different padlocks. You only need one arm free to loosen the buckles on the other armpiece, thus freeing the other arm. The system s therefore twice as safe as using a single padlock.
  • The main body loop is at the waist, therefore nothing squeezes the ribcage and breathing is unobstructed. The waist loop can thus be tightened without too much worry.
  • Having your arms bound crossed in this way makes it hard to roll face-down and obstruct your chest indirectly.
  • The elbow straps do not tighten around the inside or the underside of the elbow joint, therefore no nerves or blood vessels should be squeezed.
  • The shoulder straps rest on the clavicle just like backpack straps. If you use the back auxiliary ring to hogtie yourself, the weight is transferred on the shoulders and not the chest Obviously a tight hogtie will fatigue your shoulders just like a heavy backpack. 
  • The crossed  shoulder straps also cannot slide off your shoulders, but they could irritate your neck.
  • In the updated version I adjusted the straps so that they can be fastened without crossing. This eliminates the choking concern voiced by Ra and Tinker D. Now there is the possibility of the shoulder straps sliding off but with your arms bound at the front the shoulders are kingd of shrugged and this helps keep them in place.
  • The shoulder straps definitely need some padding though, I still need to figure out how to source/craft it.
  • It's not completely inescapable, as all the buckles have a little give, and with enough struggle I can just about reach the elbow strap buckle and loosen it a bit. This gives you more elbow mobility, which might be enough to loosen the armpieces and free your arms.
I will maybe post a full report on the completed session, but for now I hope my explanation was clear and not too messy. All in all I'm pleased with this idea, tell me what you think!  😎

regards, 
Dolin
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#2
Interesting design. However, I do not like that cross just under the neck. There could be a problem with choking.

But a very nice design and a good job on the pictures.
Reply
#3
(26 Mar 2019, 20:33 )Tinker D Wrote: Interesting design. However, I do not like that cross just under the neck. There could be a problem with choking.

But a very nice design and a good job on the pictures.

First, thank you!

Those two straps are independent and have release buckles at the back, therefore you could just not cross them and fasten them differently to free up the neck area at the front.
That way, however, I feel the straps could easily slide off one's shoulders, a linking strap could fix it but it too might be close to the neck, taking us back to squre one.

From the testing I did in my last sessions I can tell you that if little to no pulling force is attached to the back of the harness those crossing straps are no concern. 
Their function is nevertheless important, to prevent the waist loop to slide downwards as you struggle. I didn't have any marks whatsoever in that area in my last session, with only a layer of blue lycra to protect the skin.

I'm open to suggestions though
Reply
#4
(26 Mar 2019, 20:33 )Tinker D Wrote: Interesting design. However, I do not like that cross just under the neck. There could be a problem with choking.
My first immediate two thoughts.
Reply
#5
(26 Mar 2019, 20:51 )dolin Wrote: First, thank you!
First - very welcome onboard! And thank you for sharing your ideas!
Reply
#6
Based on Ra's and Tinker D's suggestions, I adjusted the length of a few straps to make it easy to fasten the shoulder straps at the sides. No more crossing at the neck! Updated the OP.
Reply
#7
Better. A lot better.
I love the front, side and back views.
Well done.

But as you may guess, I’ll think of something else to criticize about.
Reply
#8
And I still have to fully understand how everything works together 😁
Reply
#9
(28 Mar 2019, 01:09 )Like Ra Wrote: And I still have to fully understand how everything works together 😁

It all happens at the waist loop. The shoulder straps and the thigh loops just keep the waist loop from sliding up and down the torso, so forget about them for a second.

The point of the waist loop + armpieces combination is to keep the elbow pinned against the torso at one side and the wrist/hand at the other side. The elbow strap is in fact a loop (forget that it can be opened to detach the armpiece), it strats from the underside of the arm, reaches the side D-ring (whch is sewn into the waist loop) and loops back on the upper side of the arm piece, where it  meets the armpiece again. 

The elbow strap doesn't quite work like an elbow shackle as it isn't tight all around the elbow, as the pictures suggest. Without some slack the hand would be nowhere close to the opposite D-ring. 
By carefully adjusting the length of the elbow loop, once the palm ring is secured with the padlock to the opposite D-ring the elbow strap is fully taut and keeping the elbow pinned against the body.

The very first version of this idea didn't have an elbow loop but just a strap on the underside with a ring that, just like the palm ring, ought to be padlocked to the side D-ring. But without that strap looping back to press the elbow against the body  there was nothing to keep it still and it that granted way too much elbow mobility.
Likewise I hadn't crafted the palm loop , and although the wrist was pinned by its own strap the hand could be lifted and could, with struggle, reach the armpiece buckles to loosed them.

Next session I will (carefully) try posing in front of the camera while padlocked so you can get closeups.
Reply
#10
This thread should be added to the self-bondage tutorials!
Reply


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