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DIY wooden restaints
I recently discovered the fun of woodworking with handtools and finally, I could make an item, that I always wanted to try, a stock or pillory (not sure, if any of these words is exactly correct). I found some plan here: and followed the idea to my own specifications. Instead of sawing the holes first, I sawed the board in half right away and put both sides together. Then I made some wide cuts with a handsaw and chiseled out the wood. This way, I could also test the holes with my wrists and get them exactly right (actually too right, I had to make them wider for minimal comfort and even wider to make them acceptable for longer than a moment). the wooden dowels are an excellent idea. I made them much longer, they go completely into each half of the board. That allows for an opening to get the hands in while the boards don't fall apart. My stock is shorter, because it has no holes for the legs. And therefore, two dowels are enough, I think.

The locking mechanism is yet to be developed. I consider some sort of spring lock, that engages right away, when the two boards come together. Opening the lock will require a hook, the edge of a table or whatever. For partner play, the dowels could be replaced by long bolts, that's much easier. Actually, I am not sure, how much struggling the dowels will survive. They are about 10 mm wide and made from pine.

PA090061.JPG thumbnail   

As you can see, I am not done shaping the device. But all sides and corners are smooth, so it is safe to play with it.

I am going to try a simple locking mechanism, perhaps another post here in a moment...
Ok, looks fine so far:

PA090001.JPG thumbnail   

The latches have a z-shaped recess on one end to "grab" the screw. This is quite effective, I tried. Well, the whole thing might not be super-escape proof, the dowels could break, the latches could too, especially at the recesses, the wood might split easily.

If the latches are on the side opposite of the hands, there is no escape without an edge to push them away.

To do:

Finish shaping
Reshape the wrist holes a little, I cannot move my left wrist at all, and it hurts after a little while
Make the neck hole slightly larger too, for safety and comfort.
Replace the wooden latches with metal ones
Add a spring mechanism to the latches, that locks the stock when it comes together
Add a few coatings of oil and wax to make it look nicer and older
Add metal rings to appropriate places, for the looks, sound and actual use
Ok, first project at prototype stage, principally working. Now lets find new wooden ideas in the same range of simplicity.

If you have any ideas, post them here. It doesn't need to be reasonable, even silly ideas like an anal plug with back-hooks might trigger a good idea that can actually be done. But please remember, that this is about self-bondage, so escape without the help of others must be possible.

One idea just comes to my mind: A collapsable cage made from wooden pallets.
Make another stock for your feet and add a telescopic broomstick with attached dildo...
well, thank you very much!

I am out of here, sorry, I didn't make a wooden enema or pantyhose!
(11 Oct 2016, 21:22 )Strappado Wrote: well, thank you very much!

I am out of here, sorry, I didn't make a wooden enema or pantyhose!

I like it Big Grin

It looks surprisingly simple (though I bet it wasn't - sounds like you had lots of trial and error to get the positions and diameters correct?) and very 'do-able' for someone with reasonable carpentry skills and a shed/garage to work in.

I wonder if a simple hasp and staple lock would work (avoiding the complexity of your suggested spring mechanism)? They would need to be positioned close to each hand you could (with the appropriate degree of difficulty or ease) close the hasp and padlock it. Escape would be through finding the key, removing the padlocks and then opening the hasps again.  

Are you planning any lining for the neck/wrist holes? Foam or even leather might make the wearing more comfortable for longer periods.

Great post

Hi madjack! I am glad you replied, it felt a bit silly to see, how the first reactions were some lighthearted suggestions and a like to these suggestions from the forum owner...

Measuring was dead easy. I took the circumferences of my wrists and neck and divided by three, to get a slightly larger circle. While carving the holes, I tested for fit often.
For the distance of the hands, I held my forearms vertical and parallel, wrists exactly at neck height. I then bent over on a table and measured.

The stock can be made on a kitchen table, with a cheap handsaw, sharp chisel and something to drill the holes for the dowels and predrill for the screws (to prevent splitting). Spokeshave and/or card scraper for a nice surface finish on the shaped sides and inside the wrist and neck holes. A vise is recommended though, especially, because you can put the halves of the board together and carve each hole in both parts simultaneously. It doesn't matter, if the board is slightly twisted or bent, as the halves will always fit together. I think, very basic carpentry skills will do. The hardest part is to find a saw that can cut along the grain, because most saws aren't sharpened for that. It is possible with any saw, but will take a lot of time then. Good first project for a new hobby, I think.

I found a nice locking mechanism in a DIY shop now, see picture below. After taking the picture, I mounted them at places that I cannot reach with my hands. They can be operated on the corner of a table. I had to use screws to hook into, because the original counter part does not work here. Not the final solution but close. On a first test, I found, that the neck opening is still to tight, so I have to work on that again.

As for the hole sizes once more: I think, my initial measurements were quite suitable. On the wrists, I am close to my original marks now, the neck is smaller. If I had followed the marks right away, I would be done now.

PA120001.JPG thumbnail   

I think, this will be in beta stage, once I have adjusted the neck opening. Now I have to consider positions for metal rings to connect to a wall, the feet or whatever.

PS: hasp and staple locks are interesting too, since you can mount them in reach of the hands and ice away the keys to the padlocks.

PPS: No lining planned. Actually, the holes aren't tight anymore, it is like shackles.
I was thinking about your cage idea.
Pallets would be very easy of course as they are more or less ready made walls.
But pieces of 2x4" with holes drilled in them and either broom handles or plumbers piping passed through them and you'd have that real barred cage look.
It took a while, but I finally remembered where I first saw tips and techniques for securing and releasing stocks:

I don't know if there's anything there that can further prompt / help you with lock and release ideas, but it's worth a peek.
(12 Oct 2016, 22:19 )Strappado Wrote: how the first reactions were some lighthearted suggestions and a like to these suggestions from the forum owner...
Because I've been thinking about the suggestion I "liked" for years. The most difficult part here is the safety - there must not be too much freedom in any direction. I never liked stocks, and the only design I find interesting is the T-bar - locked ankles plus a dildo pole - all your movements will be transferred to the dildo inside you, keeping you entertained and alert. A broomstick might work even without a dildo, provided there is a crossbar limiting the deepness to no more, than ~12cm (unlike a flexible dildo, that can be inserted much deeper).

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