I live in a rural area on the outskirts of Las Vegas. My property is 1 1/2 acres surrounded by chain link fence. At night with no moon it is downright dark and during the summertime outside temperatures remain in the 60s to 70s. There is a house on the lot to the left of my house, a good 120 feet away. The lot on the other side is empty and therefore the nearest house on that sides is over 300 feet away. There is nothing behind my property but a road and then a house on the other side of the road, also about 300 feet away. All the right conditions for some outdoor bondage fun. Under the right circumstances my chances of being seen are quite low and if they can see me they probably cannot even tell that I am in bondage, although they may see some strange situations! But yet, even this small possibility of being seen adds a major sense of excitement to sessions that I do in my back yard, mostly done in the summertime in the darkness of the night. I try to time my sessions so that they end pretty close to daybreak, giving me little time to get out of sight before the road behind my house gets busy at about 6:30.
The session that I will be describing here was my very first outdoor session.
Equipment:
Lawn chair
Chains
key locks
Combination lock - I used a 4 wheel lock.
Safety Measures:
All locks were daisy chained to help protect against lock/key breakage.
Backup key for my wrist restraints was placed into a paint can on a table next to the lawnchair with a cord that I could reach with my hands. To pull the cord to get the key would have dumped the paint bucket onto me, so undesirable.
Execution:
I picked a nice night in the summertime where the expected low was in the low 70s with no moon. With sunrise near 5:30 and starting to get light before 5:00 I decided that I would start my session at midnight for up to a 5 1/2 session. I wore a sexy black nightgown for this session.
I placed the lawn chair in the center of my backyard, over 100 feet from all fences as well as the house, so definitely out where I could be seen at daylight. I set the back so that once fully bound I would be in a well reclined position. I setup a small table beside the lawn chair with paint can and emergency keys. I put the keys themselves inside a ziploc bag just so that there would be no paint on the keys to interfere with opening the locks.
I placed two long chains wrapped around the chair, which would be used to hold my body to the chair. I locked these in a very loose loop so that I would be able to slide my body into the loops and onto the chair. After sitting down on the chair I chained both of my legs to the chair. I then took one of the long chain loops and positioned it about where my hips were and tightened up the loop and relocked it. The other long loop I had positioned just under my arms and above my breasts, this too was tightened and locked. The keys for all the locks hung on a chain around my neck, the bundle of keys I dropped down my cleavage. Last were my arms, I chained my wrists together with the locks in reach of my fingers, turned the combination wheels to something random. I was now quite securely bound here. I have successfully opened 3-wheel combination locks blind before, but never attempted a 4-wheel lock, I fully expected to be here until there was enough light to see the numbers on the wheels, about 5 hours away.
For awhile I just enjoyed the night sky, watching the stars, seeing an occasional meteor. Every now and then I would see stars blink out and back and wondered what was causing it when I eventually caught site of a bat! This sure made for some additional anxiety! I came really close to using my emergency keys to get away! After awhile I realized the bat, or bats, were not going to bother me and I was able to put them out of my mind.
After some time I decided to fiddle with the lock and see if I could blindly unlock it. I turned wheels, trying to keep track of how many times I had turned each one in order to know when the next one needed to turn. I must have lost track since I never managed to blindly open the lock.
At 4am I got quite a surprise when my sprinkler system turned on. I had completely forgot that this was one of the days that the sprinkler runs, it runs every other day. This at least told me the time, and since I enjoy being wet while clothed, was actually a pleasant little surprise. The sprinkers ran for 30 minutes before shutting off, leaving me quite soaked. I could also see the beginnings of light off in the east, so soon I would be able to get out of my captivity.
As more light built, I eventually was able to see the numbers on the dials well enough to thumb in the combination to free my wrists. From here it was pretty easy to get to the keys and unlock all the rest of the locks. One of the locks actually failed to open and so I needed to use the backup lock instead, which opened just fine. The bad lock will get thrown away and replaced. The sun was just starting to peek over the mountains when I was totally free. I looked around and did not see a soul anywhere so I got up and went back into the house.
This session certainly had its moments, BATS! and a broken lock, but was otherwise enjoyable. Many many more outside sessions followed this one.
This came about because I wanted to combine another activity of mine along with my self bondage, being wet while clothed. As such I wanted to try a bondage session in the shower and use the shower itself to provide the release mechanism. The mechanism that I devised was a water lock, that I described in the techniques section of this site.
Equipment:
chains
locks
thick cord
pulleys
weight
chair
water lock
Preparation:
The chair was a standard metal frame chair which I removed the seat from and replaced it with a toilet seat, I needed a hole. Two pulleys were attached to the back of the chair, just to the right of center. The chair was then placed in the center of the shower.
the water lock was placed such that the lock bucket was located below the hole in the toilet seat.
Initial testing:
I believe in always testing out various portions of my sessions to make sure that everything will work as expected. These tests were performed:
1. 5 lbs of weight on the lock, shower turned on and timed to see how long it took to trip the water lock. Timed out to about 11 minutes.
2. While sitting on the chair, clothed, and the shower running, how long to trip the lock with 5 lbs of weight. Time out to about 18 minutes.
3. Each limb was chained to the parts of the chair individually to be sure I could unlock all of them using my right hand.
4. right hand restraint, this is the one that will be on the lock, checked to make sure it worked correctly. This line went from the lock ring on the water lock up through one of the pulleys on the back of the chair, through a pulley attached to the chain around my wrist, back to the other pulley on the chair and then to a weight that I had sitting on a table next to the chair. In order to have maximum movement during the binding stage, the line initially did not connect to the weight but ended in a carbiner that could be attached to a ring on the weight. Once all the other bindings were done then I could attach the caribiner to the weight and then pull the weight off the table which would fall to the floor tightening the line. The pully arrangement would keep my arm around the back of the chair and pulled slightly upwards, thereby limiting any leverage to obtain much slack in the line, and would easily prevent me from reaching the keys for all the locks that were around my neck.
Safety precautions:
All locks were daisy chained to help prevent lock or key failure.
In worst case scenario my spouse could have released me upon coming home from work and finding me. Highly undesirable!
Actual session:
After having run my various tests, the following weekend I had the actual session. I placed the chair and water lock into the shower. I placed a 10 lb weight on the lock arm. I set up the release line so that all I would need to do was lock the pulley onto the chain around my wrist. Lastly I put on one of my evening dresses and sat down.
I chained each of my legs to the legs of the chair and then chained my left arm to the left side of the chair. I then turned on the shower, which I had preset to be warm water. I did not want it too hot, nor did I want the hot water to run out too soon. I wanted to have to deal with cold water, but for not too long. With a bit of effort I got the lock positioned for the release line and by pressing against my body was able to close the lock. I then took the end of the release line and clipped it to the sandbag I had next to the chair and pulled it off the table. My right arm was pulled backwards and up slightly with an inch or two of slack, this was good, since there was no real tension on the lock ring on the water lock I knew it would release properly in time. Although I could lift the weight by moving my arm, it was quite strenuous and I never would have been able to use that hand to get to the keys.
At his point all I could do was wait. Over time the water changed from warm to room temperature to cool to downright cold. About 52 minutes into the session the water lock tripped, giving me about 2 feet of slack on my right hand, enough to reach the key ring hanging around my neck. there were about 20 keys on the ring and only 1 would unlock the release line from my wrist to gain full use of my right arm. To try the keys I had to select one, hold it in my mouth, move my arm in such a way that I could get the key into the lock, and then by movements of my head and wrist turn the key. I found the right key after 6 tries. This removed the pulley attached to my wrist and gave me fully motion on my right arm. I reached over to turn off the shower and then freed my other limbs.
All in all I enjoyed the session and would do this one again, possibly making a few changes to make it more interesting.
One remark first: Rope bondage, self applied or to others is never as predictable as handcuffs, leather straps and the like. Rope is quite alive and a small deviation is a scenario can result in a huge difference. Furthermore, rope is neither safe nor secure. Rope self-bondage is difficult to apply and when it happens to be secure, it can be quite alarming. Use your imagination, not only on scenarios but also on their risks.
This tutorial will teach you three basic wrist ties. First one that feels very snug and is easy to undo. Then the typical palms together tie in a fashion that is often found in partner bondage. Finally a tie with crossed wrists.
If you feel uneasy to try these methods on your own wrists, try them on your own ankles first. This also teaches you three ways to tie up your own ankles (ha, I am so clever đ).
You need a few meters of rope, I recommend cotton-rope or soft synthetic rope with a diameter of 6 to 8 mm. Thinner rope cuts into the skin and knots can be very hard to undo. Thicker rope is too bulky and it is hard to make secure knots at all. Furthermore, tight thick rope can be really painful. Don't try scarves or tights. They might seem like more gentle ties but they behave just like too thin rope.
You should also have a pair of safety scissors (those with rounded ends). Any sharp object will do, but such scissors are the safest tools to cut yourself free and not into your skin or even deeper.
The second and third methods are quite useful in partner bondage as well. The second one might be pretty much the standard tie. Keep this in mind if you are interested in partner bondage as well. Doing these to yourself will make you an expert in both, tieing them as well as escaping them.
Snug and Easy
--------------
Tie a small ring at the end of the rope, just wide enough to get both hands through. Put your hands in, then wrap the rope once or twice between your wrists, around the ring and pull tight. As long as you keep the rope tight, your wrists should be inseparable now. Now the tricky part: In turn, you have to put one wrap of rope around each wrist and pull tight. These wraps must be made in a way that the rope going out is crossed by the wrap, check the picture - click to enlarge.
Eventually, you will run out of rope and you are done. Leave the ends long enough and it won't come off by itself. In order to get free, just grab one loop on the other hand at a time and pull it off, ideally starting with the very last loop. As they are all stacked on each other, the order is easy.
This tie can be very tight and still no problem to get out of. If you can't find the top coil right away, pull one after the other until you find the one that you can widen, that is the top one. I recommend to remember which wrist has the last coil, this narrows down the possibilities to 50%.
Standard Wrist Tie
-----------------
Make a double, triple or quadruple ring in the center of the rope, wide enough to just get both hands through one after the other. Secure it with a double knot. Now wrap the remaining ends around these coils, between your wrist, one from each side. Finish off with one knot, pull tight and secure with a second knot. Try losely at first, the tighter it is, the harder it will be to open it again by yourself.
You might or might not be able to reach the knot which most possibly will be sitting between your wrists. But by pulling the ends of the rope(both, or you will tighten the knot), you will eventually create enough slack to get to it and open it. Alternatively, use scissors.
This is one of the most common ties in partner bondage. In fact, only experts might tell, if you have bound yourself or have been bound by someone else.
Wrists Crossed
--------------
Start like the standard wrists tie, except that you don't tie a knot to secure the loops and slide your hands into the loops from one side each. Then you bring them into the cross position, both palms facing the same way, and pull the ends tight holding one in each hand. After this, you start wrapping each end of the rope around both wrists a few times, just the same way it would go around parallel wrists. Except, the wrists can't go parallel because the first loops are in the way. You need around 15 to 20 cm left after wrapping. Tie these ends together with a simple knot and pull tight. Wriggle a bit, pull again, etc. Thanks to the friction between the rope parts, the knot will stay in position as long as you don't pull again now.When you think, it is tight enough, carefully create a second knot, without touching the first one. Then slowly close it until it is almost on top of the first knot. Finally, yank both ends of the rope apart from each other as strongly as you dare. This will secure the second knot on top of the first one. The harder you yank, the tighter it will be. Yanking is much more effective for tightening knots than long slow powerful pulling and it will displace the first knot less. The first results won't be too tight, it will always be easy to reach the knot with one hand. Unless you are using too thin rope, it will be fairly easy to open the knot. Alternatively, you can create some slack, get a door handle in between and pull one loop off one wrist. This will make the tie lose enough to get both hands out one after each other. In the worst case you have your scissors.
Crossed wrists bondage is a bit iffy in partner bondage because if it is too tight, it can damage the wrists and the sub can even apply more pressure by twisting or rotating the wrists. And if it is less tight, it is much easier to escape from than the parallel tie, especially if done with a lot of rope. But nevertheless, this is one perfectly valid tie also in partner bondage. If you do it well, others will easily believe that you have been tied up by someone else.
Final Remarks
-------------
You should try these ties one by one without pushing anything. Be patient in both, tieing up and getting free. Never panick, it won't do any good.
Rope can stretch, the strands will settle slowly and an initially very tight bondage will come loser over time.
In order to be able to open the knots, your fingernails shouldn't be too long. Not too short either, because fingernails are your best friends to work the strands apart and losen knots.
If the tie is too tight, your fingers might go numb and become useless, even unable to operate scissors or a knife. Better escape early than too late. But, as alarming as numb fingers seem, they aren't dangerous for quite a while if this is due to restricted blood circulation. You have time to call a friend for help, go to your neighbour or do something else.
Rope will inevitably leave traces on your skin. From red marks up to serious rope burns. Red marks vanish in a few minutes up to a couple of hours, rope burns are injuries and stay a few days at least. Neither is particularly dangerous, but might compromise your privacy.
Experiment with these ties, try to incorporate them into more complex bondage and if you like, post new ideas here as well. In fact, there isn't so much more to rope bondage, expect for special patterns and the realm of suspension and tieing someone to a fixed point. These ties are good reliable ties and they become better with growing experience.
Oh, and there is one thing that I almost completely stopped doing: Slip knots to tie limbs. They tend to get too tight after a while and they also have a certain probability to pop open prematurely but never if you want them to.
If you have any questions or suggestions, please contact me in this thread or write a private message. I probably forgot half of what I wanted to explain and told you a lot of useless stuff instead.
Die Deutsche Ăbersetzung
Eine Vorbemerkung: Seilbondage, egal ob an sich selbst oder an anderen, ist auf keinen Fall so vorhersagbar, wie Handschellen, ArmbĂ€nder und Ă€hnliches. Seil hat ein Eigenleben und eine kleine Abweichung kann groĂe Folgen haben. AuĂerdem ist Seil weder sicher noch ausbruchssicher. Fesseln sind nicht leicht anzulegen und wenn sie tatsĂ€chlich ausbruchssicher werden, ist das ein Alarmzeichen. Benutzt also eure Phantasie nicht nur fĂŒr neue Szenarios sondern auch um euch deren Risiken auszumalen.
In diesem Tutorial lernt ihr drei grundlegende Handfesseln. ZunĂ€chst eine, die sehr eng und leicht zu lösen ist. Dann die typische Position, beide HĂ€nde zusammen, parallel, so wie man es oft in Partner-Bondage benutzt. Und zum SchluĂ eine Fessel fĂŒr ĂŒberkreuzte HĂ€nde.
Wenn ihr euch nicht traut, diese Fesseln gleich an euren eigenen HĂ€nden auszuprobieren, versucht es erstmal an euren FuĂgelenken. Auf diese Weise lernt ihr auch gleich, die zu fesseln đ
Ihr braucht ein paar Meter Seil. Ich empfehle Baumwoll- oder weiches Synthetikseil, Durchmesser ca. 6-8mm. DĂŒnnere Seile schneiden zu sehr ein und Knoten sind schwer zu lösen. Dickere Seile tragen zu sehr auf und können ziemlich weh tun. Es ist auch schwer, feste Knoten zu machen. Versucht es nicht mit Schals oder Damenstrumpfhosen, die vielleicht harmloser scheinen, aber sich ziemlich so verhalten, wie zu dĂŒnnes Seil.
AuĂerdem solltet ihr eine Verbandsschere zur hand haben (diese Scheren mit runden Enden). Jedes scharfe Objekt kann zwar verwendet werden, aber Verbandsscheren sind mit Abstand am sichersten, um sich selbst frei zu schneiden anstatt in die Haut oder tiefer.
Die zweite und driette Methode ist auch in Partnerbondage nĂŒtzlich. Die zweite ist möglicherweise sogar die am meisten verbreitete. Daran solltet ihr denken, wenn ihr diese Methoden ĂŒbt. Im Laufe der Zeit könnt ihr nicht nur besser fesseln sondern euch auch besser befreien.
Einfach und Eng
---------------
Bindet ein Ende des Seils zu einem kleinen Ring, gerade groĂ genug, um beide HĂ€nde nacheinander hineinzustecken. Steckt beide HĂ€nde durch und wickelt das ĂŒbrige Seil ein oder zweimal um den Ring, zwischen den Handgelenken. Dann zieht die Enden stramm. Solange ihr die Enden stramm haltet, sind die Handgelenke nun fest zusammengebunden. Nun der komplizierte Teil: Abwechselnd mĂŒĂt ihr das Seil um jedes Handgelenk wickeln, aber so, daĂ der Rest des Seils unter der Wicklung liegt, wie auf dem Bild gezeigt. Nach jeder Wicklung stramm ziehen.
Nach einer Weile ist das Seil zuende. LaĂt genug ĂŒbrig und die Fesseln halten von selbst. Um euch zu befreien, mĂŒĂt ihr einfach die einzelnen Wicklungen in umgekehrter Reihenfolge wieder abnehmen.
Diese Fessel kann sehr fest werden und ist trotzdem leicht zu lösen. Wenn ihr die erste Wicklung nicht gleich findet, zupft ein bischen an allen Wicklungen, bis ihr eine findet, die sich lockern lĂ€Ăt, das muĂ sie sein. Am besten merkt ihr euch, mit welcher Hand ihr aufgehört habt, dann halbieren sich die Möglichkeiten schon.
Standard Handgelenkfessel
--------------------------
Macht einen doppelten, dreifachen oder vierfachen Ring aus dem Mittelteil des Seils, gerade weit genug, um nacheinander beide HÀnde durchzubekommen. Steckt beide HÀnde durch und sichert den Ring mit einem Doppelknoten (muà nicht besonders stramm sein, eher sehr locker). Dann wickelt ihr abwechselnd die beiden Enden des Seils gegenlÀufig um diesen Ring, und zwar zwischen den Handgelenken. Zum Schluà erstmal einen einfachen Knoten. Dann einen zweiten zum Sichern. Der zweite sollte erstmal nicht zu straff sein, diese Knoten sind schwer zu erreichen, weil sie meistens zwischen den Handgelenken stecken. Aber wenn man an den Enden des Seils zieht (beide gleichzeitig, um den Knoten nicht noch strammer zu ziehen), kommt man eigentlich problemlos ran. Alternativ muà man halt die Schere benutzen.
Diese Fessel wird wohl recht hÀufig in Partnerbondage benutzt. Wenn man sie sich selbst gut anlegt, kann höchstens ein Experte festestellen, daà einen nicht jemand anderes gefesselt hat.
Gekreuzte Handgelenke
----------------------
Fangt genauso an, wie bei der vorherigen Fessel, nur macht ihr fĂŒr den ersten Ring keinen Knoten. Dann steckt beide HĂ€nde in den Ring, diesmal aber eine von jeder Seite, dann zieht ihr die Seilenden stramm, um den Ring enger zu machen - ein Ende in jeder Hand. Als nĂ€chstes wickelt ihr jedes Ende ein paarmal um beide Handgelenke gemeinsam, wie bei der normalen Fessel mit parallelen HĂ€nden. Allerdings können die HĂ€nde nicht mehr parallel gehalten werden, weil der erste Ring das unmöglich macht. Nach den Wicklungen braucht ihr noch ungefĂ€hr 15 bis 20 cm Seil an jedem Ende. Bindet die beiden Enden mit einem einfachen Knoten zusammen und zieht stramm. Dann bewegt ihr die HĂ€nde ein bischen hin und her und zieht wieder stramm. Durch die Reibung zwischen den SeilstĂŒcken hĂ€lt der Knoten nun einigermaĂen zusammen, wenn man nicht dran zieht. Jetzt kommt ein zweiter Knoten darauf, aber ganz vorsichtig, erstmal, ohne den ersten zu berĂŒhren und sehr langsam schlieĂen. Wenn der zweite Knoten fast den ersten berĂŒhrt, zieht ihr ihn mit einem krĂ€ftigen Ruck zu, bei dem ihr die Seilenden auseinander zieht. Damit ist der zweite Knoten fest auf dem ersten. Je fester der Ruck, desto fester auch der Knoten. Langsames krĂ€ftiges Zuziehen ist lĂ€ngst nicht so effektiv. Die ersten Ergebnisse werden nicht allzu stramm sein und es wird immer relativ leicht sein, den Knoten zu erreichen und zu lösen, es sei denn, ihr benutzt zu dĂŒnnes Seil. Falls der Knoten nicht aufgeht, könnt ihr mit hilfe eines TĂŒrgriffes eine Wicklung von einem Handgelenk abziehen. Dann wird die Fessel locker genug, um sie abzustreifen. Im schlimmste Falle bleibt immer noch die Schere.
Diese Methode ist in Partnerbondage etwas heikel. Wenn sie zu stramm ist, kann sie die Handgelenke verletzen, und der Sub kann sie durch verdrehen und kreuzen der HĂ€nde ziemlich stramm machen. Wenn sie weniger stramm ist, kann man relativ leicht entkommen, wobei mehr Seil es sogar leichter macht. Aber trotz allem ist dies eine ĂŒbliche Fesselmethode und wenn euch jemand so findet, wird er ohne weiteres glauben, daĂ euch jemand anderes gefesselt hat.
SchluĂbemerkungen
-------------------
Ihr solltet diese Fesseln ausprobieren, ohne gleich an euer Limit zu gehen. Bewahrt sowohl beim Fesseln als auch bei der Befreiung Geduld. Brecht nie in Panik aus, das bringt ĂŒberhaupt nichts!
Seil kann sich dehnen, die StrÀnge setzen sich mit der Zeit und jede Fessel wird auf die dauer lockerer.
Um die Knoten gut öffnen zu können, solltet ihr keine besonders langen FingernÀgel haben. Zu kurz ist aber auch nicht gut, die FingernÀgel sind nÀmlich eure besten Werkzeuge, umd die Knoten auseinander zu pulen.
Wenn ihr euch zu stramm fesselt, können die Finger taub und damit nutzlos werden, selbst um eine Schere oder ein Messer zu benutzen. Also befreit euch lieber zu frĂŒh als zu spĂ€t. Aber obwohl taube Finger alarmierend wirken, sind sie ĂŒber eine gewisse Zeit lang nicht so schlimm, wenn sie durch behinderte Blutzirkulation entstehen. Es bleibt auf jeden Fall genug Zeit, um einen Freund anzurufen oder zum Nachbarn zu gehen.
Seil hinterlĂ€Ăt unvermeidliche Spuren auf der Haut, von roten Streifen bis zu ernsthaften Verbrennungen. Rote Streifen verschwinden innerhalb einiger Minuten, schlimmstenfalls Stunden, Verbrennungen bleiben mindestens ein paar Tage. Beides ist nicht gerade gefĂ€hrlich aber denkt daran, daĂ es verrĂ€terische Spuren sein können.
Experimentiert mit diesen Fesseln, versucht, sie in komplexeren Szenarios einzubauen und wenn ihr Lust habt, berichtet hier. In der Tat gibt es nicht viel mehr Techniken in Seilbondage auĂer diversen Wickelmustern und natĂŒrlich dem gesamten Bereich der HĂ€ngebondage und dem Fesseln an Fixpunkte. Diese Fesseln sind gute zuverlĂ€ssige Fesseln und werden durch Erfahrung immer besser.
Eines habe ich inzwischen komplett aufgegeben: "Rutschknoten" um ExtremitÀten. Diese ziehen sich manchmal viel zu fest und öffnen sich immer im falschen Moment, aber nie, wenn man es gerade will.
Wenn ihr Fragen oder VorschlĂ€ge habt, schreibt mir eine Nachricht oder postet hier im Forum (am besten natĂŒrlich auf Englisch). Vermutlich habe ich die HĂ€lfte vergessen und dafĂŒr vieles mehrmals gesagt, was völlig uninteressant ist.
Open Thread
I thought I would share this timed release device that I have been using lately.
It is an a-frame with a swinging arm on top. On one end of the arm hangs a 2 gallon bucket. On the other end there is a post going upwards where weight-lifting style weights may be put. The weighted side also has a metal rod that hangs from it. When the weighted side is down the rod fits into a hole in the base plate of the device. I use a locking ring that the rod goes through before the hole in the baseplate.
Then attached to the lock ring can either be a line to a hanging key, or part of the bindings, etc. The only caveat is that too much tension applied to the lock ring may prevent the rod from moving upwards at the right time. This is no problem for light objects like keys, but if there is a tensioned line going to the bindings then at some point the tension would need to be lessened to allow the rod to move.
Now the timing mechanism itself, a source of water (or other liquid) that will enter the bucket. Once enough weight of water is in the bucket to offset the weights added to the other end of the arm, then the rod will be pulled out of the hole and the lock ring will be released, dropping a key or removing the anchor point of a binding.
My general method of using this is to hang a water filled bucket above the device and put a small hole into it to allow the water to drip out into the lock bucket. The time can be controlled to a great degree on when the lock will be released, either by the amount of weight, the size of the incoming water stream, or the amount of water that starts in the lock bucket. Times as low as a minute or as much as many many hours could be setup using this lock.
Since the original session that I created it for I have used it quite reliably in a number of other sessions.
After some testing today I release the new version of Selfbondage CD Tray Opener.
As the first released version, the program has an input where we must type how long we want to wait for the key releasing:
For safety reasons Selfbondage CD Tray Opener doesn't accept time inputs longuer than 360 minutes (that's 6 hours!).
This is because I don't believe that many laptops has a battery that last much more longuer than 6 hours.
When a longuer time is inputted, when we press START, the program responds:
If we input a valid time and press START button we will get a screen with the countdown:
We can exit that screen and open the CDTray just pressing Esc on the keyboard.
During the countdown the program plays a "beep" every second, it can be turned off unchecking this checkbox:
Selfbondage CD Tray Opener 2.0 also has a "Random" option.
To use it you will have to input the maximun time that you want to play and check:
In random mode, the countdown screen will look like this:
It doesn't need to be installed to run (works perfectly from an USB, for example) and has been tested hundred of times in WinXP and Vista.
Yet to be tested on Windows 7 (if anyone have one valid license to give it will be welcomed )
Yet to be tested on Win2K/NT (not sure if it will works)
And it will not work on WIN9X/Me
This time the program does not only runs a countdown, it also can get sound from a microphone and respond moving a vibrator (Ohmibod or similar)
I call this Teasing Mode and to activate you just have to check this box:
To play with this mode you are going to need a microphone (anyone that works on windows) and a vibrator that can be activated with a minijack (ohmibod or similar). When you check the box the program starts to "listen" to the microphone input (the level of sound that you produce is shower in the progress bar):
You can also make it more accurate adjusting the microphone level on windows.
Then we have to adjust the threshold of sound that will activate the vibrator. To adjust this level we have to slide the slider to the desired position:
During this setup the program will play a sound every time we make a noise louder than the level of the hreshold (and if we have a vibrator activated by sound... voliĂ !!).
Use this setup wisely to adjust the level of noise admited before the progams moves the vibrator. When you press START it will can not be changed.
If you try to enter this mode without any microphone connected to the computer you will always get a noise level of 100%.
Finally I added a random mode for the vibrator too, to activate it just check this:
It will make the vibrator play randomly during the session (once again we need a Ohmibod or similar vibrator or we will just get a sound from the computer).
All the modes can be combined, but please remember that it will reduce the duration of the battery.
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HOW TO CONVERT A WIRED VIBRATOR ONTO A OHMIBOD:
On my particular case Ohmibod is very tiny, so I managed to convert my butplug (that works with batteries connected with two wires) onto a Ohmibod kind vibrator.
I have a inflatable buttplug like this:
I've cutted of the wires and get this:
(wires 1 and 2)
and this:
wires 4 and 5.
If we have a Ohmibod and look at the base it will look like this:
Just connect the wires as described and my buttplug becomes a new toy đ
(of course it has to be connected to the computer with an audio jack and the batteries must be turned on while playing)
Rachael Fox deleted his remaining videos from the web after complaints from interfering busybodies led to some of them being taken down by YouTube. I have no idea why anyone was upset as there was nothing in the least offensive in any of them, just him walking around his house in rubber, lycra and heels. In case he decides to delete his pics from the web too here's an archive: