https://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/ Wed, 29 Apr 2026 02:23:41 +0000 MyBB https://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/Thread-New-suspension-set-up Sat, 19 Oct 2019 22:14:13 +0000 steve6322]]> https://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/Thread-New-suspension-set-up
[url=http://

Source: www.pornhub.com/view_video.php?viewkey=ph5783383b634b7
]Drea Morgan - Choked Frogtie[/url]

Doing something this by yourself requires a bit of thought and I'm still experimenting but I think I've cracked it (though no rope around the neck I assure you). The set up requires a strong point on the ceiling, an electric winch/hoist and a reducer gearbox. The gearbox I chose was a 1:60 which with the winch gives around 1 rotation every 2 minutes. The winch was dismantled to remove the winding gear and wire rope leaving the motor and output shaft. The gearbox needed attaching somehow and I had to resort to raiding my mechanics socket set and turning a shaft on the lathe for the output. The winch-reducer gearbox are mounted on a sturdy frame which is screwed to the floor. A wooden shaft or spoke is secured to the output drive from the reducer gearbox which is 90 degrees to the input from the winch. A bolt through the end of the shaft/spoke provides an attachment point for a rope which is then threaded through the strong point on the ceiling and down to your cuffs (see images). I drilled holes through the plastic guard on the winch switch gear through which I push a nail to keep the switch depressed.

I'm still experimenting but it seems to work ok. A release mechanism could be an ice lock between the shaft/spoke and the ceiling strong point, but for now I'm using panic-trigger releases. Things that need improving are (a) a stronger frame as it tends to flex under load, and (b) a non-stretch rope. The winch tends to get hot when run for longer periods and cuts out. It then starts again when cool enough, which can be rather nice... a random stop-start-stop-start effect. 

I'm busy thinking up uses, but definitely not the neck rope as in Drea's video!!!

  Presentation1.jpg (Size: 55.07 KB / Downloads: 283)

  IMG_4540.JPG (Size: 1.97 MB / Downloads: 256)

  IMG_4538.JPG (Size: 1.42 MB / Downloads: 269) ]]>
[url=http://

Source: www.pornhub.com/view_video.php?viewkey=ph5783383b634b7
]Drea Morgan - Choked Frogtie[/url]

Doing something this by yourself requires a bit of thought and I'm still experimenting but I think I've cracked it (though no rope around the neck I assure you). The set up requires a strong point on the ceiling, an electric winch/hoist and a reducer gearbox. The gearbox I chose was a 1:60 which with the winch gives around 1 rotation every 2 minutes. The winch was dismantled to remove the winding gear and wire rope leaving the motor and output shaft. The gearbox needed attaching somehow and I had to resort to raiding my mechanics socket set and turning a shaft on the lathe for the output. The winch-reducer gearbox are mounted on a sturdy frame which is screwed to the floor. A wooden shaft or spoke is secured to the output drive from the reducer gearbox which is 90 degrees to the input from the winch. A bolt through the end of the shaft/spoke provides an attachment point for a rope which is then threaded through the strong point on the ceiling and down to your cuffs (see images). I drilled holes through the plastic guard on the winch switch gear through which I push a nail to keep the switch depressed.

I'm still experimenting but it seems to work ok. A release mechanism could be an ice lock between the shaft/spoke and the ceiling strong point, but for now I'm using panic-trigger releases. Things that need improving are (a) a stronger frame as it tends to flex under load, and (b) a non-stretch rope. The winch tends to get hot when run for longer periods and cuts out. It then starts again when cool enough, which can be rather nice... a random stop-start-stop-start effect. 

I'm busy thinking up uses, but definitely not the neck rope as in Drea's video!!!

  Presentation1.jpg (Size: 55.07 KB / Downloads: 283)

  IMG_4540.JPG (Size: 1.97 MB / Downloads: 256)

  IMG_4538.JPG (Size: 1.42 MB / Downloads: 269) ]]> https://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/Thread-Hands-free-self-bondage Tue, 23 Jan 2018 22:04:09 +0000 steve6322]]> https://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/Thread-Hands-free-self-bondage
Equipment...
rope 4 x 2m lengths
chain 3 x 2m lengths
ankle cuffs
elbow cuffs with locking buckles
2 x small padlocks for elbow cuffs
2 x large padlocks
collar
4 x double ended triggers
ice lock

Set up...
Tie rope loops at each corner at foot of the bed
Place 2 lengths of chain around waist position on the bed stretching side to side
Tie chains together at each end with rope and tighten under bed and secure both ends of rope at the ice lock... make sure this is tight and the chains are taught (two weights or types of chain is helpful here... see later) and attach the large padlock keys to each end of the double chain
Place 3 chain across head end of bed and secure tightly each side with rope so that it too is taught.

Getting into position...
Fasten ankle cuffs around each ankle and use a double-ended trigger to fasten your ankles to the foot of the bed, spread nice and wide
Fasten elbow cuffs around each elbow and secure with small padlock, place larger padlock on the elbow cuff D-ring
Fasten collar loosely around neck and lay back
Secure collar D-rings to chain at head end of bed with 2 x double-ended triggers, one on each side, securing head to head end of the bed
Bring elbows close to body/waist and lock with padlock to one of the double chains... now LISTEN CAREFULLY... make sure one padlock is attached to one chain, and the other is attached to the other chain (this is why two types of chain or different chain weights is helpful so as to avoid embarrassing mistakes!)

That's it... your stuck, but crucially with hands free for hands to do naughty/pleasurable things. If you've done this right, then you're stuck until the ice-lock melts and you can pull the ends of the chain towards you and retrieve the padlock keys and then you're free. Voila! Just be careful to make sure you attach each elbow padlock to a different chain!

Pictures to follow...  😊

Play safe!]]>
Equipment...
rope 4 x 2m lengths
chain 3 x 2m lengths
ankle cuffs
elbow cuffs with locking buckles
2 x small padlocks for elbow cuffs
2 x large padlocks
collar
4 x double ended triggers
ice lock

Set up...
Tie rope loops at each corner at foot of the bed
Place 2 lengths of chain around waist position on the bed stretching side to side
Tie chains together at each end with rope and tighten under bed and secure both ends of rope at the ice lock... make sure this is tight and the chains are taught (two weights or types of chain is helpful here... see later) and attach the large padlock keys to each end of the double chain
Place 3 chain across head end of bed and secure tightly each side with rope so that it too is taught.

Getting into position...
Fasten ankle cuffs around each ankle and use a double-ended trigger to fasten your ankles to the foot of the bed, spread nice and wide
Fasten elbow cuffs around each elbow and secure with small padlock, place larger padlock on the elbow cuff D-ring
Fasten collar loosely around neck and lay back
Secure collar D-rings to chain at head end of bed with 2 x double-ended triggers, one on each side, securing head to head end of the bed
Bring elbows close to body/waist and lock with padlock to one of the double chains... now LISTEN CAREFULLY... make sure one padlock is attached to one chain, and the other is attached to the other chain (this is why two types of chain or different chain weights is helpful so as to avoid embarrassing mistakes!)

That's it... your stuck, but crucially with hands free for hands to do naughty/pleasurable things. If you've done this right, then you're stuck until the ice-lock melts and you can pull the ends of the chain towards you and retrieve the padlock keys and then you're free. Voila! Just be careful to make sure you attach each elbow padlock to a different chain!

Pictures to follow...  😊

Play safe!]]> https://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/Thread-New-project Mon, 25 Apr 2016 11:43:25 +0000 steve6322]]> https://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/Thread-New-project
Not posted for a while as I've been busy and lack of opportunity to "play". Anyway... I'm just off shopping for my new workshop project and inspired by MJ's post #125 under pantyhose cock sheath... Pantyhose cock sheath... shopping outfit ...I thought I'd dress for the occasion and add a little bit of excitement!

I'm wearing one of the wife's corsets, her six strap suspender belt, nylons and panties plus a CB6000 and a large butt plug. Oh... and some street clothes. 

Hardware/timber merchants here we come.

S

Update:
I'm back, and no it didn't take nearly 24hrs to make a trip the the hardware/timber merchants! I bought a 3m length of 25x225  and 2m length of 25x175 planed redwood and box of screws which are now in the workshop with the existing timber I'd sorted out for the "project". I also bought a deck cleat (see photo) from a Chandlers. It was an interesting shopping expedition knowing what I was wearing beneath my street clothes. The corset was done up pretty tight making breathing and moving a little difficult, especially getting in and out of the car. The CB6000 wasn't too uncomfortable as some people have described... Chastity - the good and the bad ...but I knew I had it on under my jeans. Back home I stashed the timber and cleat in the workshop and went to get changed where the butt plug made a rather hurried exit! oops. Today I'm in the workshop making a lot of wood shavings and saw dust!!

  FullSizeRender (1).jpg (Size: 233.81 KB / Downloads: 430)

  IMG_3922.JPG (Size: 285.15 KB / Downloads: 412) ]]>
Not posted for a while as I've been busy and lack of opportunity to "play". Anyway... I'm just off shopping for my new workshop project and inspired by MJ's post #125 under pantyhose cock sheath... Pantyhose cock sheath... shopping outfit ...I thought I'd dress for the occasion and add a little bit of excitement!

I'm wearing one of the wife's corsets, her six strap suspender belt, nylons and panties plus a CB6000 and a large butt plug. Oh... and some street clothes. 

Hardware/timber merchants here we come.

S

Update:
I'm back, and no it didn't take nearly 24hrs to make a trip the the hardware/timber merchants! I bought a 3m length of 25x225  and 2m length of 25x175 planed redwood and box of screws which are now in the workshop with the existing timber I'd sorted out for the "project". I also bought a deck cleat (see photo) from a Chandlers. It was an interesting shopping expedition knowing what I was wearing beneath my street clothes. The corset was done up pretty tight making breathing and moving a little difficult, especially getting in and out of the car. The CB6000 wasn't too uncomfortable as some people have described... Chastity - the good and the bad ...but I knew I had it on under my jeans. Back home I stashed the timber and cleat in the workshop and went to get changed where the butt plug made a rather hurried exit! oops. Today I'm in the workshop making a lot of wood shavings and saw dust!!

  FullSizeRender (1).jpg (Size: 233.81 KB / Downloads: 430)

  IMG_3922.JPG (Size: 285.15 KB / Downloads: 412) ]]> https://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/Thread-Vertical-spread-eagle--1666 Tue, 14 Apr 2015 17:25:45 +0000 steve6322]]> https://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/Thread-Vertical-spread-eagle--1666 http://www.likera.com/blog/wp/archives/1246 and how to improve the release mechanism and problems with getting into the position I'd had at previous attempts. Anyway, suffice to say I think I've come up with a neat solution which works well.

1. The frame
First I built a strong wooden frame (see pic 1) which was designed to fit tightly between ceiling and floor. I've used this before when first experimenting with this idea and it works fine. Basically two planks about 200x15mm and 3-4m long, one for the base (floor) and one for the upper cross piece (ceiling). Two uprights of about 100x50mm and just long enough to be hammered into place as a tight fit between the base on the floor and the upper cross piece on the ceiling. These are then kept in place using eight triangular corner wedges screwed into place. 

  Frame.jpg (Size: 294.03 KB / Downloads: 694)  Pic 1

1. The release mechanism
I wanted something simple and pretty foolproof as getting stuck isn't an option. Ice locks work well but not when subject to your whole body weight as it tends to shatter too easily unless you're hanging off a whole iceberg! So the ice lock has to hold something else that takes the strain and then releases when the ice melts. I decided that four M10 eyebolts would be the anchor points. I drilled a hole though the bolt end so that a metal pin (in this case a nail with the head sawed off) of smaller diameter than the drilled hole could hold the eye bolt in place in the wooden frame creating a solid anchor. The top of the pin can then be frozen in an ice cube such that it won't be able to drop through the hole in the bolt end of the eye bolt until the ice melts. Voila! (see pic 2).

  icelock.jpg (Size: 281.6 KB / Downloads: 706) Pic 2

Ok, a few modifications are necessary. First you need a stand-off between the outside of the frame and the pin/ice cube arrangement so that you don't bend the pin or shatter the ice under your body weight. Second you need to delay the melting out of the pin a little. Metal conducts heat very well and so tends to melt out of the ice cube very quickly. You can remedy this by filing a slot around the head of the pin and tying a few cotton threads on to it. When frozen in the ice cube these don't conduct heat and although the pin might melt out quickly, the threads take longer adding extra time to the ice lock. The longer the thread, the longer the wait until release time. Experiment and do some dry (wet?) runs first and be aware that it depends on the temperature of the room also. I also noticed a tendency for the stand-off to rotate under load and top-heavy weight of the ice cube and so allow the pin to slip out when it rotates fully 180 degrees. I rectified this by cutting recessed slot in the stand-off for the pin to sit in and screwing the stand-off onto the outside of the frame (see example set up in pics 3 and 4 - minus ice cube). You can see in pic 4 that when vertical and with the ice lock melted the pin slips straight through; even under load a little wiggle of the anchor allows the pin to fall freely through and thereby release the eye bolt.

  Stand off.JPG (Size: 164.27 KB / Downloads: 688)  Pic 3

  Release.JPG (Size: 397.62 KB / Downloads: 681)  Pic 4

(hint: freeze your pins in the ice cubes supported by a simple piece of hardboard with a grid of holes drilled in it the same spacing as the recesses in your ice cube tray. I then take them carefully out... sitting the ice cube tray in some warm water helps... and always do more than you need as some can shatter as they are removed. I then placed them in a pre-cooled wide-mouthed drinks vacuum flask to keep frozen until needed).

3. Getting into position
The girl in the cartoon makes it look easy. It isn't! The blocks tend to wobble alarmingly and it is easy to fall and do yourself some damage as you balance precariously on these trying to attach ankle and then wrist chains to the eye bolt anchors. To reduce the wobble-factor I screwed a metal door hinge to the base of the blocks and then to the base of the frame. This provides a remarkable amount of extra stability while you mess with chains and anchors. A swift kick forwards is all that is needed to topple the blocks and you're hanging in a vertical suspended spread eagle position.

4. Ready?
I used double-ended triggers to attach the ankle chains to the lower eye bolt anchors and then padlocks to attach the wrist chains. This means you have to wait until the ice melts and the pins fall out. I did a dry run with triggers on the wrist chains as well to get chain lengths right and test the ice locks. I suggest you do too to make sure everything is the right length, height, load-bearing capacity, that the pins fall freely, that the ice melts... and you don't get stuck. It is a good idea to have a back up. Tie the padlock key to the end of a long piece of string and the other end to your wrist (it'll take you about as long to wind the string round and round your finger - bringing the key to your hand - as it does for the ice to melt). 

5. Really ready?
OK here goes... Oops! Nearly forgot to dress accordingly! I decided on the black Libidex latex body with full sleeves, red latex shorts, lace-top hold ups, thigh length PVC boots with 4" heel, latex hood, a lockable slave collar, a mouth-filling "Kong" harness gag (see http://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/showthr...p?tid=1210) and my falsies! All in position? Right... kick! I do love the frisson of excitement as you get ready to kick the blocks away and the snap of the chains as they come taught. This session lasted ten minutes before the ice locks melted enough to let the pins drop... which was enough (I can feel my back and arm muscles aching as I type this some 5 hours later). Here are some pics for you...


  chaining up.jpg (Size: 331.19 KB / Downloads: 697)

  ice locks in.jpg (Size: 345.2 KB / Downloads: 321)

  flight checks.jpg (Size: 267.51 KB / Downloads: 362)

  locks on.jpg (Size: 332.49 KB / Downloads: 409)

  kick.jpg (Size: 273.21 KB / Downloads: 479)

  stretch.jpg (Size: 292.23 KB / Downloads: 546)

  stuck.jpg (Size: 292.76 KB / Downloads: 478)

  strain.jpg (Size: 292.61 KB / Downloads: 469)

  free.jpg (Size: 283.63 KB / Downloads: 447)

Have fun, play safe.]]> http://www.likera.com/blog/wp/archives/1246 and how to improve the release mechanism and problems with getting into the position I'd had at previous attempts. Anyway, suffice to say I think I've come up with a neat solution which works well.

1. The frame
First I built a strong wooden frame (see pic 1) which was designed to fit tightly between ceiling and floor. I've used this before when first experimenting with this idea and it works fine. Basically two planks about 200x15mm and 3-4m long, one for the base (floor) and one for the upper cross piece (ceiling). Two uprights of about 100x50mm and just long enough to be hammered into place as a tight fit between the base on the floor and the upper cross piece on the ceiling. These are then kept in place using eight triangular corner wedges screwed into place. 

  Frame.jpg (Size: 294.03 KB / Downloads: 694)  Pic 1

1. The release mechanism
I wanted something simple and pretty foolproof as getting stuck isn't an option. Ice locks work well but not when subject to your whole body weight as it tends to shatter too easily unless you're hanging off a whole iceberg! So the ice lock has to hold something else that takes the strain and then releases when the ice melts. I decided that four M10 eyebolts would be the anchor points. I drilled a hole though the bolt end so that a metal pin (in this case a nail with the head sawed off) of smaller diameter than the drilled hole could hold the eye bolt in place in the wooden frame creating a solid anchor. The top of the pin can then be frozen in an ice cube such that it won't be able to drop through the hole in the bolt end of the eye bolt until the ice melts. Voila! (see pic 2).

  icelock.jpg (Size: 281.6 KB / Downloads: 706) Pic 2

Ok, a few modifications are necessary. First you need a stand-off between the outside of the frame and the pin/ice cube arrangement so that you don't bend the pin or shatter the ice under your body weight. Second you need to delay the melting out of the pin a little. Metal conducts heat very well and so tends to melt out of the ice cube very quickly. You can remedy this by filing a slot around the head of the pin and tying a few cotton threads on to it. When frozen in the ice cube these don't conduct heat and although the pin might melt out quickly, the threads take longer adding extra time to the ice lock. The longer the thread, the longer the wait until release time. Experiment and do some dry (wet?) runs first and be aware that it depends on the temperature of the room also. I also noticed a tendency for the stand-off to rotate under load and top-heavy weight of the ice cube and so allow the pin to slip out when it rotates fully 180 degrees. I rectified this by cutting recessed slot in the stand-off for the pin to sit in and screwing the stand-off onto the outside of the frame (see example set up in pics 3 and 4 - minus ice cube). You can see in pic 4 that when vertical and with the ice lock melted the pin slips straight through; even under load a little wiggle of the anchor allows the pin to fall freely through and thereby release the eye bolt.

  Stand off.JPG (Size: 164.27 KB / Downloads: 688)  Pic 3

  Release.JPG (Size: 397.62 KB / Downloads: 681)  Pic 4

(hint: freeze your pins in the ice cubes supported by a simple piece of hardboard with a grid of holes drilled in it the same spacing as the recesses in your ice cube tray. I then take them carefully out... sitting the ice cube tray in some warm water helps... and always do more than you need as some can shatter as they are removed. I then placed them in a pre-cooled wide-mouthed drinks vacuum flask to keep frozen until needed).

3. Getting into position
The girl in the cartoon makes it look easy. It isn't! The blocks tend to wobble alarmingly and it is easy to fall and do yourself some damage as you balance precariously on these trying to attach ankle and then wrist chains to the eye bolt anchors. To reduce the wobble-factor I screwed a metal door hinge to the base of the blocks and then to the base of the frame. This provides a remarkable amount of extra stability while you mess with chains and anchors. A swift kick forwards is all that is needed to topple the blocks and you're hanging in a vertical suspended spread eagle position.

4. Ready?
I used double-ended triggers to attach the ankle chains to the lower eye bolt anchors and then padlocks to attach the wrist chains. This means you have to wait until the ice melts and the pins fall out. I did a dry run with triggers on the wrist chains as well to get chain lengths right and test the ice locks. I suggest you do too to make sure everything is the right length, height, load-bearing capacity, that the pins fall freely, that the ice melts... and you don't get stuck. It is a good idea to have a back up. Tie the padlock key to the end of a long piece of string and the other end to your wrist (it'll take you about as long to wind the string round and round your finger - bringing the key to your hand - as it does for the ice to melt). 

5. Really ready?
OK here goes... Oops! Nearly forgot to dress accordingly! I decided on the black Libidex latex body with full sleeves, red latex shorts, lace-top hold ups, thigh length PVC boots with 4" heel, latex hood, a lockable slave collar, a mouth-filling "Kong" harness gag (see http://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/showthr...p?tid=1210) and my falsies! All in position? Right... kick! I do love the frisson of excitement as you get ready to kick the blocks away and the snap of the chains as they come taught. This session lasted ten minutes before the ice locks melted enough to let the pins drop... which was enough (I can feel my back and arm muscles aching as I type this some 5 hours later). Here are some pics for you...


  chaining up.jpg (Size: 331.19 KB / Downloads: 697)

  ice locks in.jpg (Size: 345.2 KB / Downloads: 321)

  flight checks.jpg (Size: 267.51 KB / Downloads: 362)

  locks on.jpg (Size: 332.49 KB / Downloads: 409)

  kick.jpg (Size: 273.21 KB / Downloads: 479)

  stretch.jpg (Size: 292.23 KB / Downloads: 546)

  stuck.jpg (Size: 292.76 KB / Downloads: 478)

  strain.jpg (Size: 292.61 KB / Downloads: 469)

  free.jpg (Size: 283.63 KB / Downloads: 447)

Have fun, play safe.]]> https://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/Thread-Stocks-with-electromagnet-release Thu, 28 Feb 2013 14:21:36 +0000 steve6322]]> https://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/Thread-Stocks-with-electromagnet-release
Well, I've been busy on the workshop again and have put the electromagnet I used for this set up http://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/Thread-...-time-lock to work again, this time as a release mechanism for some good old fashioned wooden stocks. It's pretty obvious how I made these from the pictures, but basically they're stocks hinged at one end and with a lock at the other. For the foot end I just used an adjustable hasp as the lock, but on the head/arm end I used the electromagnetic door lock again with an electronic timer (plus a back up in line... just in case 😎 ). With the stocks screwed down to the floor through the carpet it works pretty well. Kept me stuck there for a good 20mins until the timer release.

Of course, I dressed for the occasion in latex body (Libidex), latex hood, black fishnet hold ups, and stiletto knee boots. The outfit was finished off with a gag harness of my own making (and of which I'm quite proud... it has inter-changeable gags: a ball, a big deep-throat gag (seen here and purchased at local pet store... http://www.kongcompany.com/en-uk/ ) and a bit gag ..also from local pet supply store! ...pet shops are never going to be the same again! 😋. Oh, and a posture collar. Perfect.

Play safe!
Steve

  stocks_1.jpg (Size: 287.21 KB / Downloads: 805)

  stocks_2.jpg (Size: 296.68 KB / Downloads: 951)

  stocks_3.jpg (Size: 293.48 KB / Downloads: 989)

  stocks_4.jpg (Size: 290.22 KB / Downloads: 947)

  stocks_5.jpg (Size: 292.26 KB / Downloads: 873) ]]>
Well, I've been busy on the workshop again and have put the electromagnet I used for this set up http://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/Thread-...-time-lock to work again, this time as a release mechanism for some good old fashioned wooden stocks. It's pretty obvious how I made these from the pictures, but basically they're stocks hinged at one end and with a lock at the other. For the foot end I just used an adjustable hasp as the lock, but on the head/arm end I used the electromagnetic door lock again with an electronic timer (plus a back up in line... just in case 😎 ). With the stocks screwed down to the floor through the carpet it works pretty well. Kept me stuck there for a good 20mins until the timer release.

Of course, I dressed for the occasion in latex body (Libidex), latex hood, black fishnet hold ups, and stiletto knee boots. The outfit was finished off with a gag harness of my own making (and of which I'm quite proud... it has inter-changeable gags: a ball, a big deep-throat gag (seen here and purchased at local pet store... http://www.kongcompany.com/en-uk/ ) and a bit gag ..also from local pet supply store! ...pet shops are never going to be the same again! 😋. Oh, and a posture collar. Perfect.

Play safe!
Steve

  stocks_1.jpg (Size: 287.21 KB / Downloads: 805)

  stocks_2.jpg (Size: 296.68 KB / Downloads: 951)

  stocks_3.jpg (Size: 293.48 KB / Downloads: 989)

  stocks_4.jpg (Size: 290.22 KB / Downloads: 947)

  stocks_5.jpg (Size: 292.26 KB / Downloads: 873) ]]> https://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/Thread-tight-spread-eagle-selfbondage-with-electromagnetic-time-lock Thu, 20 Sep 2012 14:10:47 +0000 steve6322]]> https://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/Thread-tight-spread-eagle-selfbondage-with-electromagnetic-time-lock
1) I bought a plate-type 12/24v electromagnetic door lock (25-30Euros) and build a wooden bracket and attached an anchor point to the plate (see photo 1). This is screwed to the floor (I have carpets over wooden floorboards so this works fine, but I guess others with carpet over concrete or laminate/wooden floors might need to think of something else... fasten to skirting boards or use a large plank) and the electromagnet attached to the power via 12/24v transformer and two in series electronic timers (one for safety back up) timed to switch the power off at your chosen "end time".

  photo1.JPG (Size: 261.29 KB / Downloads: 905)

2) Fasten opposing anchor 2-3m away and join to the electromagnetic anchor with chain. I used a twist bolt to tighten this up (see photo 2). You could place an ice-lock timer here http://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/Thread-Ice-time-locks between this anchor and the chain as a second backup.

  photo2.JPG (Size: 279.99 KB / Downloads: 920)

3) Lay spread-eagled with fingers touching the newly installed anchor chain and mark the position of ankles on the floor. Place a spreader bar between these points. I made my own collapsable spreader bar from an old broom handle, some metal pipe and some large eye-bolts and I'm rather proud of the result. I also attached some brass d-ring type picture hangers as shown. I took some long springs I had lying around in the workshop and clipped these to the ends of the spreader bar and anchored the other ends to the floor (see photo 3). The spreader bar can then be placed under considerable tension and kept there by hooking the brass picture frame hangers over another couple of screws I placed in my floor.

  photo3.JPG (Size: 163.66 KB / Downloads: 954)

4) Clip my ankle cuffs into the eye bolts on the end of the spreader bar, lay back and clip wrist cuffs into anchor chain using padlocks. I use a small length of chain between my writs cuffs and the padlock to make this easier and keep the tension. You can also spread your arms wider and reach out along the anchor chain to make this bit as tight as possible. Click! Click!

5) Now simply flex your knees /legs and unhook the brass picture frame d-rings on the spreader bar off the screws that are keeping the springs in tension... voila! (see photo 4)

  photo4.JPG (Size: 125.42 KB / Downloads: 1292)

6) When your time is up, the anchor plate releases (or your ice melts) and you can reach over and undo your wrist cuffs and you're free.

You can achieve a nice amount of tightness/tension using this method depending on what type of springs you use. OK, so you've got to spend a bit of time in the workshop and buy a few bits and bobs but the result is (I think) worth it.

Have fun and play safe.

Steve]]>
1) I bought a plate-type 12/24v electromagnetic door lock (25-30Euros) and build a wooden bracket and attached an anchor point to the plate (see photo 1). This is screwed to the floor (I have carpets over wooden floorboards so this works fine, but I guess others with carpet over concrete or laminate/wooden floors might need to think of something else... fasten to skirting boards or use a large plank) and the electromagnet attached to the power via 12/24v transformer and two in series electronic timers (one for safety back up) timed to switch the power off at your chosen "end time".

  photo1.JPG (Size: 261.29 KB / Downloads: 905)

2) Fasten opposing anchor 2-3m away and join to the electromagnetic anchor with chain. I used a twist bolt to tighten this up (see photo 2). You could place an ice-lock timer here http://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/Thread-Ice-time-locks between this anchor and the chain as a second backup.

  photo2.JPG (Size: 279.99 KB / Downloads: 920)

3) Lay spread-eagled with fingers touching the newly installed anchor chain and mark the position of ankles on the floor. Place a spreader bar between these points. I made my own collapsable spreader bar from an old broom handle, some metal pipe and some large eye-bolts and I'm rather proud of the result. I also attached some brass d-ring type picture hangers as shown. I took some long springs I had lying around in the workshop and clipped these to the ends of the spreader bar and anchored the other ends to the floor (see photo 3). The spreader bar can then be placed under considerable tension and kept there by hooking the brass picture frame hangers over another couple of screws I placed in my floor.

  photo3.JPG (Size: 163.66 KB / Downloads: 954)

4) Clip my ankle cuffs into the eye bolts on the end of the spreader bar, lay back and clip wrist cuffs into anchor chain using padlocks. I use a small length of chain between my writs cuffs and the padlock to make this easier and keep the tension. You can also spread your arms wider and reach out along the anchor chain to make this bit as tight as possible. Click! Click!

5) Now simply flex your knees /legs and unhook the brass picture frame d-rings on the spreader bar off the screws that are keeping the springs in tension... voila! (see photo 4)

  photo4.JPG (Size: 125.42 KB / Downloads: 1292)

6) When your time is up, the anchor plate releases (or your ice melts) and you can reach over and undo your wrist cuffs and you're free.

You can achieve a nice amount of tightness/tension using this method depending on what type of springs you use. OK, so you've got to spend a bit of time in the workshop and buy a few bits and bobs but the result is (I think) worth it.

Have fun and play safe.

Steve]]>