Upgrades, people, upgrades. I standardized the connectors as it got painful to deal with. 2 m6 screws with 0.5 inch separation. I had to size it to realistically fit myself. Now for the annoying bit. How to get in and out safely and reliably without being able to put your hand on the mechanism.
My idea is just a rubber band tensioned aircraft seat belt thing. Basically, you can pull to engage or disengage. This is easy to do and reliable, but near impossible to lock. One way to lock it is to run the string using eyebolts to secure it in place and other stuff, but that is annoying and finicky at best.
Not dead yet. Just busy. For an update I have designed what I believe to be a workable and fairly safe arm clamping method. The latching is done by a latch that has a rubber band to provide tension. The release mechanism weakens the entire setup but it is good enough. A bolt holds the two halves together and has 2 holes in it for rope loops. The bigger head side will hold a rope which passes through an eyelet next to the shoulder which can be pulled on to pull the bolt out of the mechanism. The hole on the other side links to a rope that passes through an eye bolt with a time lock on it. As long as the time lock is on the rope loop it cannot be pulled through the eyelet and the length of the rod allows me to have some slack in the rope.
The advantage is that the time lock is installed before the actual locking in. No fiddling with the lock with one hand and no risk of latch issues. The only hiccup might be if the rod gets stuck or if the distance between rod and eyelet is too small.
It is hilarious how cheap it is though. Giant 1 inch shoulder cuffs only cost 6 dollars. This entire setup might cost about 30 bucks. Takes like 2 days to print a single cuff even on high speed which is somewhat unfortunate.
It's big. Takes ages though.
WOW! A
eady made!
Always 2 there are. Ziptied the 2 together for fun.
(18 Oct 2021, 03:54 )Lancer Wrote: [ -> ]Always 2 there are. Ziptied the 2 together for fun.
Are you printing them 100% infill?
(18 Oct 2021, 07:00 )essanym Wrote: [ -> ] (18 Oct 2021, 03:54 )Lancer Wrote: [ -> ]Always 2 there are. Ziptied the 2 together for fun.
Are you printing them 100% infill?
Nope. That would weigh several kilograms. Wouldn't be very comfortable and would be fairly expensive. I am printing at 20% but with very durable infill. The benefit of infill is giving you far greater strength for far less material. Had I printed it 100% but shrunk it down to save weight it would not stand up to the task of hogtieing myself to my shoulders.
I also now have a far greater understanding of why people prefer bendable(hard material) or flexible materials for armbinders. Having both your arms forced at the shouldsto point at close to 90 degrees is extremely uncomfortable.
I tried to do sort of a strappado thing where I just lie on the ground with my arms lifted behind me to prevent the armbinder cuffs from falling off but that is a mistake. I could not move my arms properly as the strappado prevented me from reaching my cuffs. Luckily the cheap Chinese leather was not up to the task and broke on one of the handcuffs afterwards I just cut the rope. I wouldn't do what I just did without a lot of extra consideration for escape but if any of you are interested it is fairly easy. What I did was have a rope loop attached to a hardpoint and size it so that when the cuffs are attached it is at the same height as my hands behind my back when kneeling. I then frogtied myself in a kneeling position and put on the elbow binders before attaching the wrist cuffs then gently falling forwards. Very restrictive and very comfortable.
If you try this I would also place a pair of scissors on the same rope loop so you can cut the rope off if something goes wrong aa well as other safety measures. I will not be trying it anymore as the armbinder cuffs were uncomfortable in general
I have decided to try making it in a more reverse prayer fashion as boxties work poorly with solid frames. You don't realize that with rope but boxties rely on the two arms being slightly offset from one another which is difficult to do on a solid frame.