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This being my very first web post ever , I will apologise for all mistakes in advance.

While not claiming to be an expert with the sewing machine I do make my own
bondage stuff ...
Currently have an external sleeve sleepsack that has one self closing zipper
(hmmm yes method discovered by accident).
With the other zipper lanyard (right arm) removed or tucked in it is
actually escape proof so I have to play with caution, but nothing beats the
rush of realising you are stuck. The design has a bonus that you can hover
on that point where the zip crosses the elbow for as long as you like!

The self closing is very simple and effective ... just a heavy rubber band
on the left arm zipper...
The closure for the sack it via cord and is at the feet... ie it goes over
you head first... makes it stronger no zipper to break and release you.
It’s also wicked hard to get at your feet with your arms at your sides.

Quite easy to make... think it only took 2 or 3 nights.. cost all of about
$30 and it doesn't leave rope/strap marks after a good struggle.

Have included some photos of the sac so you can see the zipper setup.

This sack is very constrictive… good for 1 to 3 hours play. I have tried sleeping in it but I’ve never been able to … in contrast I can happily sleep in a straight jacket.

If anyone is interested I could post construction tips or pictures of it in use?
Yes, please post as much information as possible! Some people over here are pretty familiar with sewing (no, not me 😉.
This sack was originally constructed over 5 years ago for two person play… had to be quick to restrain arms and allow my partner access to whatever, without letting my hands out. The idea was to start the night in the bag with arms and feet free and let things get better from there on in.

Soon as it was made of course I had to try it solo. Got unexpectedly stuck first time I tried it J… took an hour or so to get free and I had to fix several seams. Since then I’ve spend many solo hours stuck in it and have had lots of fun squirming to get free .. only difference is that now seams don’t pop and it quite strong enough to hold my most desperate struggles. It’s easy to vary level of difficulty for a solo session as well as being escape proof enough for games like bondage by SMS.

The bag is made from a single rectangular piece of material .. you can see the one join in the back .. this runs full length and is stitched about 6 times now….in fact most seams are sewn 3 to 6 times. I worked out the width of material from measuring my torso under the armpits and adding a bit. The length was the width of the material off the roll which from memory was 154cm, now my shoulders are about 158cm from my feet so I was counting on some stretch which also has the effect of tightening in the other direction. So there is definitely an element of Chinese finger trap in the design.

Being an external sleeve sack there are holes for the arms to come though at the top of the bag. An educated guess based on a measurement (size, shape) from comfortable sweatshirt seemed to work for me

The side “arm” pockets again just rectangular pieces. Size was worked out from length of arms (shoulder to finger tips) plus about another hand length. Don’t want to be able to reach the bottoms of the pockets as this would give leverage against the bag. The width was a guess of upper arm circumference plus seam allowance but in retrospect I would make it much more… You can always sew them on then restitch around them if you want them tighter.. Helps to pin or tack the stuff in place first and gently try it. No reason why the arms have to be at the sides with this design.

The zippers in the pockets need to be surprisingly long (45 cm) … obviously stick them in before you attach the arm pocket to the outside of the bag body and stich them in well. One or two runs doesn’t cut it and they are a pig to redo later and it interrupts “play time”. Use at least medium weight zippers that are fixed together at the bottom. Tip of the day would be to remember to back stich and cut your treads around zippers. Many of my “o my god” moments have come from loose treads stuck in things they shouldn’t be… then again pot luck can be lots’a fun. If I was doing this again I would certainly consider placing the zippers at the back of the arm pockets where I can’t see them.

There is a folded over bit (hem?) that is sewn at the bottom that has the cord to close the bag .. this was actually made big enough to take light chain. I have tried this once or twice but keep in mind it’s hard to reach and small padlock keys can be deliciously fiddly things.

The neck was done out of ribbing material … very light stretchy, I wanted that high collared feeling but without over tightness that eventually induces total panic if your asleep. I wasn’t allowed to do a hood but ribbing material would be perfect for this esp if you don’t want a squashed nose. The size and shape of the neck hole , again made by measuring things that did fit me. There is no real stress on the neck seam but be aware that you may be going from stretch to non-stretch material, ie the stretch material has to be stitched on stretched to the right size … definitely a pin in place first job.

The final shape of the bag has actually been tapered from the butt down … this was done by just restitching the back seam several times. The net result being once on the legs also have very little movement. It doesn’t look that way in the photo but remember it has to stretch to get over the feet and the cord pulls it all together.
The area’s in the arm pockets around the wrists have also had bit’s restitched to made them much tighter but it’s all to personal taste.

Material... would have been lycra but .. it’s was way beyond my sewing ability at the time and it would not have stood up to my strength. So I settled for poly cotton polar fleece… tactile, strong, very warm/hot but wicks sweat away well. If I could easily buy “Darlex” I’d do another one in this in like a millisecond.
I'd also love to see a working deonstration of this device. The discription confuses me a little so a couple of pics would ceartainly help.
Step 1
Sleepack on but arms and feet still free

Step 2
Bottom cord pulled closed and tied. Feet and legs now trapped

Right arm starting to go into the side pocket

Step 4
Close this zip with the other arm. The small black lanyard is to hook an object in order to escape later… (maybe …) Only have my left arm free at this point

Pull the other zip down against the rubber band and put arm in external pocket

Step 6
This is the good bit … Zipper sitting at the point of no return over my elbow. Just one more wiggle and ….

Step 7
Zipper past the point of no return and attempt to get your arm out just closes the zipper more … TRAPPED Mmmmmm yeah.

Hope this helps visualise how it all works.
Wow. Great idea. With an ice lock, it can be a great self bondage toy.
Maybe leather or neoprene, or spandex.

Good show.
(24 Dec 2013, 01:20 )Tinker D Wrote: [ -> ]Wow. Great idea. With an ice lock, it can be a great self bondage toy.

Hmmm what it really needs is locking zippers like my darlex sack ?

Actually what the world needs is time lock zippers.... only zip one way till a set time has expired... hmmm so many possibilities....
Have you ever considered making these and selling them, say on a site like Etsy?
Very clever design! And I like the rubber band idea, but for a different purpose. You could use the lanyard to close the other zipper. Make it long enough to reach your mouth.

Timed release: You probably have to get to a door handle or so, to use the lanyard. So you could simply attach the bag to your bed using an ice lock.
(19 Mar 2010, 09:52 )Marcus Wrote: [ -> ]Since then I’ve spend many solo hours stuck in it and have had lots of fun squirming to get free .. only difference is that now seams don’t pop and it quite strong enough to hold my most desperate struggles
And how do you get free?