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Rubber Cement/Glue
#1
Greetings there Folks.

Been off planet for a bit (just got back) though do have a question that I'm sure the astute members here will have answers about. Looking for rubber cement and or glue that works on. well, rubber. As long as I am able to recall I have had success using plain old rubber cement (like Elmer's) widely available from art stores to department stores and of late, it simply does not work as well as previous. I have no idea should the formula(s) have changed but the results have been lacking. Nothing that I do has changed, my techniques are age old but I am encountering failed bonding with rubber on rubber and it defies logic. I have  tried auto/bicycle tire patching products and in particular, Slime which is made to repair inner tubes and plug tires and still have had dismal results.

So, any have recommendations? I've to wonder what sort of adhesives Libidex and Latexa (and many more) use. I'm open to all suggestions because this is a downer and I am not ready yet to claim 60's brain damage (though since I was there it is inevitable that I achieved some from and since that time...)

I henceforth appeal to the master members out there who have wisdom related to impart on the subject as the frustration level is about to drive me to drink. Indeed, I note that it is almost cocktail hour so best I repair to that task. After all, there are several concerns that produce various spirits that apparently count on me to keep them solvent. I should hate to disappoint them and risk falling sales.

Tipples, 
Dworkin
Reply
#2
for Latex clothes manufacturing you need Bostik 3851 and its associated thinners/cleaner

Bostik 3851 Latex Rubber Adhesive Glue
Reply
#3
For me, I use 2 different kind of glue.  For chlorinated repairs, I've found the the glue sold by eurocatsuit combined with some light sand paper works quite well.  I never tried rubber cement or Bostik 3851 though, I guess it the same as this eurocatsuit one?

But it tends to dry so you need to thin it again long-term speaking.

For anything else : radical rubber's radical glue which is water base.  The main advantages : far less smelly (and toxic) than non water glue, faster to dry before glueing two pieces, and the best : not latex curling with it so, it's far more easy  to glue .25mm sheets Yahoo I use it for all making on natural non chlorinated latex including my neck entry catsuit or sleepsack and the bond is quite strong as it never broke.  The only drawback is you need to be careful not to have glue anywhere else because it's a mess to clean.  😡
Reply
#4
(16 Feb 2020, 01:36 )no smile Wrote: But it tends to dry so you need to thin it again long-term speaking.
yes it probably is the same as the Bostik one... that evaporates too.
The bostik is one you want to make sure you use in a well ventilated area.
The tins come with a "best before" date on them, so they are not a buy once and keep forever, they will be trash after a few month of opening.
Reply
#5
(16 Feb 2020, 09:46 )ltxrob Wrote:
(16 Feb 2020, 01:36 )no smile Wrote: But it tends to dry so you need to thin it again long-term speaking.
yes it probably is the same as the Bostik one... that evaporates too.
The bostik is one you want to make sure you use in a well ventilated area.
The tins come with a "best before" date on them, so they are not a buy once and keep forever, they will be trash after a few month of opening.

In the case of the eurocatsuit's one, I've been able to maintain it much longer by adding white spirit (that I use as thinner) to the glue and mixing them.  I add a bit, mix and look at the mixed result until it's similar to the original.  And I've resurrected it up to 3 times (before having an empty tin I mean)

Next time, I'll have a look at the boostik  😊
Reply
#6
Greetings there Folks.

Thank You everyone for the input and insights. The water based glue holds appeal as there is no ventilation in my Ready Room until the weather is warm enough to open windows. Found a couple of sites on the net and at least to get to the US it is pricey though should it work it would be worth the effort. And Thanks for the details about chlorinated glue use- had not considered that issue. Have not yet found a  cost effective source for the Bostick yet (everything so far offers quite a large amount) and I suspect I simply have not investigated all avenues. My main repairs of late have been to rubber gloves that are chlorinated though as stated the glue I used to use simply does not anymore which is just another Mystery of Life. Such repairs for something so simple may seem trivial but I like to extend the working life of just about everything and giving the toss to that which is easily repaired just runs against my grain. Plus, the gloves I use are $1.56 a pair (in bulk) so heck, I'm cheap.

Anyway...

Thanks again my cohorts, I express my considerable appreciation.

Finest of Regards,
Dworkin
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