Problems with the selfbondage 'ring device'

[Like Ra]

Sounds exciting :-P

I've been thinking (read "dreaming") about something like http://www.extremerestraints.com/the-ana...l?a=likera for ages, but the associated price and danger stops me from ordering one.

[doubleflash]

Ra,

It was exciting 😯ops:

I agree that the commercial products like the "Anal Impaler" are expensive and could be quite dangerous. I like the standard police nightstick because it is cheap (~ $15.00 for wood, $30.00 for plastic) and because it is rounded and smooth on the ends. The diameter is about 1.25 inches, so it has a fairly large surface on the end.

I've never had any damage from the nightstick during any of my SB scenes. I am very careful not to get into a position where I could fall or somehow have the stick shoved in too deeply.

During some scenes, I use a nightstick that I've modified to be safer. I've drilled a 3/8" hole through that stick about 4 inches from the end. I've forced a smooth 3/8" steel rod throught the hole. The rod protrudes about 2 inches from each side of the stick. The rod stops over-penetration, but still lets enough of the stick in to my anus to be interesting.

The rod also makes a good tie point for crotch ropes or rubber tubing harnesses.... Lots of possibilities.

Doubleflash

[susanr]

I have gotten an idea for a one-way device that uses a rope. On my sailboat there is a device for tightening the mainsheet. Essentially it is a pulley with a cam-cleat on one side. The pulley itself hangs from the boom. One end of the mainsheet is tied off and then runs over the pulley and through the cam cleat. The line moves easily through the cam cleat in one direction, the direction where you pull the line to pull in the boom. The cam cleat holds the line so that it will not slide the other direction. On the sailboat removing the tension involves pulling the line upwards from the cleat, which uncleats it and allows the boom to move outwards.

I have been thinking that this could replace the ring device. Hang the pulley from wherever you would normally hang the ring device from. The binding line you use then goes over the pully and through the cam-cleat. If a bracket is placed on top of the cleat then it would be impossible to pull the line out of the cleat, making a very effective one way tightener. This could easily be tightened with a single hand and would not release the tension on the line until your ice lock or whatever other release you use releases the line on the other side.

Here is a drawing to give an idea what I am talking about. Next time I go out to my boat I will take a picture of this pulley setup so that you all can get a better idea of how it works.

   

[Like Ra]

Looks like another version of a rope-ratchet.

[relatex]

I have gotten an idea for a one-way device that uses a rope. On my sailboat there is a device for tightening the mainsheet. Essentially it is a pulley with a cam-cleat on one side. The pulley itself hangs from the boom. One end of the mainsheet is tied off and then runs over the pulley and through the cam cleat. The line moves easily through the cam cleat in one direction, the direction where you pull the line to pull in the boom. The cam cleat holds the line so that it will not slide the other direction. On the sailboat removing the tension involves pulling the line upwards from the cleat, which uncleats it and allows the boom to move outwards.

I have been thinking that this could replace the ring device. Hang the pulley from wherever you would normally hang the ring device from. The binding line you use then goes over the pully and through the cam-cleat. If a bracket is placed on top of the cleat then it would be impossible to pull the line out of the cleat, making a very effective one way tightener. This could easily be tightened with a single hand and would not release the tension on the line until your ice lock or whatever other release you use releases the line on the other side.

Here is a drawing to give an idea what I am talking about. Next time I go out to my boat I will take a picture of this pulley setup so that you all can get a better idea of how it works.

Cam cleats are an excellent means of ensuring a rope will travel easily in one direction but not at all in the other, and if fairleads are used fore and aft of the cleat there is no chance of the rope accidentally popping out of the top of the cleat. However, they have one big problem, namely that they (and the fairleads) must be fastened to a rigid base.

I used to sail (some years back) and from that I too got the idea of using cam cleats for sb by fixing two small cam cleats and their fairleads to plywood bases, and attaching the bases to the lower parts of the legs of a high bed. The ropes running through the cleats were tied to the electric cables of a couple of vacuum cleaners - the sort where the cables are self-stowing and you tug on the cable to start the self-stowing mechanism. (That was the essence of the set-up, there was a bit more to it in practice, but I hope that explains the concept. Like other contributors to these pages, I cannot draw for toffee, so words are the best I can manage.)

It worked sort of OK, but would have been better if the self-stowing cable mechanisms of the cleaners had generated more 'pull' to get the ropes through the cleats more positively. It was just experimental and very Heath-Robinson, and the resulting sb was a bit too static for my tastes, so it was a short-lived pursuit that I never tried to refine.

Pulleys and falling weights would work OK to pull ropes through cam cleats.

Although I've never gone back to cam cleats, I have always had a fantasy about very small ones fixed onto/into a leather body harness as a means of fashioning, in effect, a straitjacket - ideally in conjunction with small versions of those vacuum-cleaner type spring-loaded mechanisms to pull and stow the ropes (I've long been fascinated by the possibilities of such devices, but have no detailed idea of their workings). But I'm not sure if it would be practical to attach even small cam cleats, let alone self-stowing devices for ropes, to a leather garment - the leather would at the very least need to be pretty thick and rigid.

More generally, though, cam cleats might have applications in other sb scenarios....it needs someone with more imagination and more engineering nous to come up with ideas.

[paul knight]

I've been searching for a SRD replacement for quite a while now. The last couple of times I used the "one-way buckle" you can find in any DIY, auto-, moto-, travel- shops. I don't remember the exact name, but it looks like a nylon strap with the buckle on one end. If you pull the tail through the buckle and tighten the loop, it will not give up even under heavy load. The buckle has a tab with a spring to release the loop.

You can use the buckle with a strap ( as it is) or replace the strap with a rope. I tried both and found 3mm nylon rope (with a cinch noose on the other ens) better and more convenient than the strap.

One down side. The buckle ruined two pairs of pantyhose I was wearing! So, beware of sharp edges, or choose higher quality (always! 😊

I have just posted a little device I fabricated for my self use simple and easy to make and dead reliable with I should imagen any type if thread line or rope you made it to fit Cheer Paul

[Like Ra]

This is the link to the thread: http://www.likera.com/forum/mybb/showthread.php?tid=600

[Strappado]

For hogties - binding hands and feet together, there is an alternative to the ring device:

Instead of making a simple ring between hand and feet, make it double, triple or even quadruple. With every extra coil, you need half the friction of a single ring and therefore, a simple sliding knot is enough. Of course, you need a lot of rope and this rope is likely to get shorter with every session.

I also used this method to tie my hands to a chest harness (behind my back), just a double ring attached to the harness, insert one hand from each side, pull tight. In this case, you can't reach the knot and it takes a lot of strength and wriggling to get out. I stopped doing this, as it hurt my wrists to struggle free, up to pain lasting several days. Well, that is, how effective this method is!

In order to increase the friction of the slip knot, tie it in a way, that the small end of the knot points towards the coil. This way, the knot will tighten when you try to pull the rope out (but perhaps open completely while tightening the rope, that is the downside).

[Like Ra]

For hogties - binding hands and feet together, there is an alternative to the ring device:

Instead of making a simple ring between hand and feet, make it double, triple or even quadruple. With every extra coil, you need half the friction of a single ring and therefore, a simple sliding knot is enough.

Not sure I completely understand the set up. Are you talking about making some kind of a pulley system? Or adding rings to the SRD?

If the former, how do you use it to to tie your hands to a chest harness?

Or you are talking about rope loops?

Yeah, I've just reread again, and I think this is what you mean. I usually use double or triple loops for my wrists. Difficult to get in, but less pressure and tighter the grip.

[Strappado]

I should have made a drawing right away, here it comes:

The chest harness is very basic on the drawing, similar to a jacket.
The wrist tie is a separate rope, the loop includes the lower strand of the chest harness, it can even include both strands, if the harness is lose enough. It really depends on your dexterity, since including the upper strand will pull up the hands a lot.

The wrists go through the double loop, one from each side, on the picture, one hand will point towards the viewer of the picture, the other one into the screen.

On this specific tie, it will be easier to cut the chest harness than the wrist tie.

   

And here the hogtie:

   

Here, the blue rope is the same method as the wrist rope on the other tie. Of course you need to pull the end, that goes through the knot, not the end that creates the knot. Wrist and leg ties can be fairly lose, because they will be chinched a bit by the connecting (blue) rope. Alternatively, you can bind legs and hands firmly with their own ropes and simply make a connection with the blue rope.

I hope, this makes it clearer. At first sight, a simple slip know might look like not enough friction, but a triple loop for the first method, with soft 10mm rope was hard to wriggle out of, and four loops were really painful.
For the hogtie, you have to consider the extra friction from leg and wrist ties, therefore I had the idea to connect the blue rope to the ties with rings instead of leading it through the ties.